behind the burner: feature on mole “find your fiesta”
Adjacent to the water in Williamsburg, Brooklyn is Mole, an authentic Mexican restaurant that you must visit at least once this summer, unless you’re a local, in which case Mole’s cuisine will have you coming back time after time. After all, as Memorial Day commences summer celebrations (or fiestas!), it’s hard to imagine anything better than an ice cold margarita made with freshly squeezed lime juice and a plate of spicy guacamole (made tableside) with a smooth and creamy texture. That’s the way I began my meal at Mole, but the way you begin will be entirely up to you.
In my opinion, Mole is an enticing destination to eat this summer for two reasons. The first reason, and the reason that will keep people continuously coming back, is the caliber of the cuisine being prepared. The owners of Mole are a husband-wife team who take serious pride in their food. The chef, Lupe Elizalde, is from Mexico and prepares every dish with authentic flavor and enthusiasm. Her culinary knowledge of traditional Mexican preparation combined with her husband Nick Cervera’s awareness of what NYC diners are looking for create a high standard of cuisine that is consistently adhered to. The second reason to check out Mole is for the margaritas, tequila, and the atmosphere. Even on a Wednesday evening, the bar was packed and the music was on. Fully stocked with 70 different types of tequila, including a Don Julio Anejo from 1942 which is smoother than cognac, Mole is a place to have a good time. By 8 o’clock, the dining room was filled with an invigorating energy from the good food and drink.
Without needing to verbally build up the cuisine made at his restaurant like many other proud owners, Nick’s casual awareness that his food speaks for itself is completely present in his calm, good hearted demeanor (and of course in each enticing dish on the menu.) Nick trusts that Lupe has incorporated the best recipes from all over Mexico. Everything I tried was flavorful and fresh, but the star of the night, the dish in which the restaurant is named for, is Mole’s specialty. Because some of the spices needed can’t be imported to the U.S. on a fresh, consistent basis, Lupe has her mother prepare and ship up her own Mole sauce for the Mole chicken enchiladas. Even if you split this entree for an appetizer, the Mole sauce is not something that should be overlooked when trying Mole for the first time.
My second dish to indulge in were the fried fish tacos made with flounder on a blue tortilla with lettuce, pico de gallo, and sliced avocado. I had to agree with Nick when he said, “Forget about the extra 100 calories and splurge on the fried, you won’t regret it.” Nick was 100 percent right, but I have a sneaking suspicion the grilled flounder would have been just as delicious. The flounder had an amazing texture and could be made into 3 personal tacos or could just be dipped into a jalapeno sour cream or a spicy mayo. The fish melted in your mouth and was one of the first suggestions Nick had for us.
Another notable dish was the chulettas asadas, grilled pork chops marinated in fresh lime and ancho chile. The pork chops could be cut with a fork and had the consistency of barbequed pork smoked for hours. It was spicy and sweet and definitely stirred me away from generalizing Mexican cuisine. Just like the fish tacos, the chulettas could be made into 3 personal tacos by being served along with corn tortillas and pickled onions and a slightly spicy verde salsa. On its own, the pork would have be an exceptional entree.
By the time I finished my meal, along with a few margaritas (Mole’s margaritas are made with fresh fruit juices and are not iced so you don’t have to worry about an overly sugary drink that will ruin your appetite and leave you feeling bloated), I wasn’t quite in the mood for dessert. Instead I finished my meal by sipping on Don Julio Anejo from 1942, which went down smooth helping me to relax and digest. It was a fantastic end to an authentic meal that I will not be forgetting soon.
— Written by Valerie Cario
